Letter from Longchamp: Arc the Talk of the Town

[Wandering Eyes]

Paris has many communities, bars, and ethnic neighborhoods–and there are horseplayers in them all. It seems like every different community has a different choice for this Sunday’s G1 Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe at Longchamp.

For this 1 1/2-mile turf classic, the French, the Irish, the English, the Japanese and the Americans have lined up not behind a horse, but behind a trainer.

19 Thoroughbreds will contest Europe’s greatest, richest race at the newly rebuilt Longchamp.

A perfect bar to get a good French view of The Arc is the Chantilly PMU. Two weeks ago, a horse bolted in after throwing his exercise rider at the nearby track. The unraced Thoroughbred ran from one end of the bar to the other, smashing tables and chairs while panicked horseplayers rushed to the exits leaving their Paris-Turf and drinks behind on the bar. They’re back. The bettors–not the horse. And the punters agree, Walgeist could give champion French trainer Fabre his eighth Arc winner.

At Quigley’s Point, the horse talk spills on to Rue du Jour, where Aidan O’Brien is as well known as Guiness. Note: they also have televisions devoted to American Football, and stay open late.

Of the five horses O’Brien is responsible for, Kew Gardens (Ire) (Galileo {Ire}) seems to be the bar favoite. Ryan Moore will pilot.

The Asian community cannot forget Deep Impact (Jpn), Orfevre (Jpn) and Kizuna (Jpn). So many Japanse were at Longchamp for the Arc that management set up a special tent just to change Yen into Euros in 2012. Multiple-time Arc starter Orfevre finished third that year.

This year, the hopes of the East are with Clincher (Jpn) (Deep Sky {Jpn}), who drew post one and will be ridden by 49-year-old Yutake Take.

Most trainer talk at Le Bar Du Burgundy is about Englishman William Haggas. Most horse talk there is about Sea of Class (Ire) (Sea the Stars {Ire}), who hopes to make The Arc his fifth straight victory. British-born James Doyle rides.

Although Harry’s Bar on Rue Dauno is touristy, you do hear lots of horse talk. The trainer most talked about here is John Gosden, who was assistant to Charlie Whittingham at Santa Anita, Del Mar and Hollywood Park back in the 1970s. John would have become the “next Whittingham” had he stayed in California, but he is back in England, and at the top of his country’s game. He won The Arc last year with Enable (GB) (Nathaniel {Ire}), and most think he will do it for the third time in four years. Golden Horn (GB) (Cape Cross {Ire}) won it in 2015.

It is a winning combination. The filly looking for a classic race repeat at a new track. The brilliant trainer who scratched Cracksman (GB) (Frankel {GB}) because the ground was too hard. Plus the exceptionally canny rider, Frankie Dettori, who has won this race as far back as 23 years ago with Lammtarra,

and now going for this sixth Arc score. And being a native of Milan, Italy, Frankie has a huge Italian following.

So, I am listening to the handicappers at Harry’s Bar. I’m buying it–and a ticket on Enable.

 

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