Deauville: Mais Où Sont les Restos d’Antan?

[Wandering Eyes]

In a recent conversation with TDN's very own Sue Finley, I realized that we were facing the same, and admittedly awful, conundrum: where will we eat out in Deauville this December? It is an understatement to say that the eating and drinking scene in the Normandy resort has undergone quite a changeover in the last few years. In fact, most of the venues where racing and bloodstock folks used to gather at the end of a long day on the Arqana sales grounds have either closed or changed hands – and in the latter case are likely to be owned by the same Parisian conglomerate that took over a number of local institutions after Covid. Le Drakkar, Le Central, Santa Lucia, Fanfaron, Le Comptoir et la Table, Barbara, Le Brok, 21, Marinette and many more are either gone or just a faded memory of their old selves.

To make things worse, they all seem to have followed the same trend: upward prices, downward authenticity, fewer local products, more globalized dishes, and this ubiquitous neutral, pretendedly chic décor. I am told it is called “premiumization” – I call it “AirBnBzation”. As if the whole point of travelling was about making sure that you can find the exact same latte and burger thousands of miles away from home, and still flood your Instagram feed with 'quaint' photos of the remote country you are visiting.

Yet I have some good news for those who might be sharing my disappointment (and Sue's). There are still some family-owned, locally provided restaurants – included newly-opened ones – to be found if you delve just a little bit deeper into the narrow streets of Deauville – and more importantly, just across the river in Trouville.

Oldies but goodies

While most of the old favorites may seem to have been turned upside down, a handful are still holding strong. It is thankfully the case of Les 4 Chats, which after 33 years in business remains one of the liveliest and tastiest eateries in town. Nested in a tiny little street just off Trouville's popular Rue des Bains and bathed in its signature red light, Serge Salmon's pride and joy is as coveted for its quirky interior (think of a three-story house crammed with tables of all shapes and sizes) as for its rôti de coeur d'alloyeau (a roasted piece of beef, sourced from local breeders). And it you fancy pushing it late into the night with some singing and dancing, this is definitely the place to go. Reservations are recommended.

In a much quieter style, La Régence never disappoints those looking for traditional fishy dishes at their finest. White tablecloths, red velvet chairs and silverware are in order in this historical décor which dates back to 1853, when Trouville first became a fashionable seaside resort and earned her nickname 'La reine des plages'. Nathalie Fremond and her husband Jean-François serve the best lobster in town and speak fluent English, which never hurts. As at Les 4 Chats, reserve in advance.

A traditional brasserie…with matching prices

Facing the Deauville townhall and the charming carillon that plays the melody of Claude Lelouch's A Man and a Woman every hour now sits a cosy brasserie by the name of Les Petits Princes. Behind the wooden almond green shutters, Thomas Sivadier, whose family has bred and raced horses for several decades, operates from breakfast until late. French staples such as croque monsieur, steak tartare and entrecôte are of top quality and at sensible prices (dinners range from 14-28 euros per), something which seems to have become a rarity in this part of town. Sivadier races his Flat-bred horses with trainer Nicolas Perret in Marseille, including the restaurant's equine namesake who won his first two starts this year and just fell short in Group company, as well as jumpers with Yannick Fouin and David Cottin. His restaurant is a refreshing addition to a neighbourhood where 'simple' sometimes sound like an insult.

A taste of Portugal in Normandy

Launching a Portuguese restaurant in Trouville may sound like a bold challenge, but one that Alex Mary has taken up with rousing success. Aptly located in the narrow, uphill Rue de Verdun, which easily brings views of Lisbon to mind, his Lisboa Café is a place to warm your heart and soul after a long day of inspections in the wintery wind. Every piece of furniture was carefully picked in brocantes and flea markets by Trouville-born Alex and his wife Elodie of Portuguese descent, while the menu is a delightful mix of French and Portuguese influences. From starters to the delicious pasteis de nata, everything is homemade, and the fireplace adds the finishing touch to the homely feeling.

Gastronomy with a modern twist

Thirty-year-old Jarvis Scott learned his trade along some of France's most famous chefs before taking part in the TV show Top Chef in 2021. Three years later, he opened his first restaurant, Turbulent, in Trouville. As it says on the tin, this bistronomic venue adds a creative twist to local products and French traditional recipes, with the menu changing on a weekly basis. At the moment, oysters with a shot of ginger water and the revisited tête de veau are well worth a try. Small is beautiful for Scott as his boutique restaurant can only sit 35 guests, yet it includes a long table which can accommodate large parties.

Chez Ginette: grandma's kitchen

As Romane Hardy puts it: “Ginette is my grandmother's first name and our goal was for our guests to feel like they're eating at their grandmother's house“. Together with partner Arthur Laisney, the native from Normandy opened her first restaurant a year ago in Trouville's busy Rue des Bains. Chez Ginette has quickly become known for its generous portions of old-fashioned, unpretentious dishes such as langue de boeuf, cordon bleu and roasted camembert. The atmosphere is cosy and lively, and families are made to feel welcome by the vast array of table games and books on display. Sunday brunch is a must!

As the December sales approach, finding an authentic Normandy dining experience may take a little more digging than in years past, but our support of individually-owned restos can only help to preserve that experience for the future.

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